Thursday, May 27, 2010

Traveling to England 2009, part two


After a week driving around Hampshire, Bedfordshire and Hertfordshire, we drove to Heathrow and dropped off our car.  I cannot get over how much more stressful driving in England has become over the last fifteen or so years. I used to enjoy the challenge of driving on the left, but the traffic has grown so dreadful, with huge lorries and great volume of speeders, I no longer want to do it very much. Ed doesn't like it much either! So we were glad to be rid of the car. Above, a shot of the new terminal

 which we walked through to catch the train into Paddington: the Heathrow Express. Paddington, right, has a rather Victorian feel, a sharp contrast to the new Heathrow space. Somehow, no matter the updating and modern amenities, these old railroad stations have that 19th century feel to them.

We stayed in St. James, at the Cavendish Hotel, corner of Jermyn Street and Duke Street, just  the street from Fortnum and Mason.  Though this is a concrete behemoth, it is the site of the famous hotel run by one of King Edward VII's mistesses, the famous Duchess of Duke Street, subject of a well-known PBS series, made in England of course. The Cavendish was an excellent location, just a block off Piccadilly and a neighbor not only of F&M, but of Hatchards and the Royal Academy.
Nice rooms and a great view from upstairs.

We had several visits planned for research purposes, especially to the Scotland Office in Whitehall, the former house lived in by the Melbourne family when Emily was a young girl.


Whitehall's sidewalks, aka pavements, were all torn up but we persevered and were taken around to the main floor rooms, which are occupied by the Scotland office. Through the rear windows, we saw the bands proacticing for the upcoming Trooping the Colour to celebrate the Queen's Birthday. I took some interior shots, though our guide was very nervous about it. Perhaps she thought I was a spy. From the Wales office??



The foyer is very impressive, looking upward toward the low rotunda and across the marble floor to the entrance.













The walls and fireplaces are still raltively intact, but hardly complemented by the sturdy official furniture and office lighting.









But there are definitely traces left of the elegant mansion that hosted so many parties, including the waltz lessons hosted by Lady Caroline Lamb, wife of William Lamb (Emily's brother) who after the death of his wife, succeeded to the title of Lord Mebourne and became Prime Minister of England.







Another of my delightful tasks while in London in may of 2009 was to follow the maps laid out by the Royal Academey exhibition of Palladian influences in Georgian architecture. I had downloaded their brochures, though the show itself was sadly concluded. On our walks around Mayfair and Westminster, we were able to see many 9of the buildings described, as below, two views of Berkely Square.
As I recall, this house was used by some American leaders during the Revolutionary war and early Federal Period.  Need to renew my research!

We also looked at some of the other locations that Emily,Lady Cowper/Palmerston, lived. I think her first home after marriage ot Lord Palmerston was here, in Carlton Terrace. These buildings were on part of the location of Carlton House, which was demolished after having millions spend in rebuildign and enahncing its decor. The Prince Regent was a lavish spender. But it stood in the way of Nash's plan for connecting Regent Street with the Mall.





Later, the Palmerstons lived here at a building known today either as the In and Out Club, after the signs on the posts along Piccadilly, or Cambridge House, for it was once the residence of the Duke of Cambridge. Before the Pamerstons lived there (1855-65), others occupied the house, including the infamous first Marquess of Cholmondeley (1749-1827)who was a protector of Grace Eliot and a famous man about town. The house number is 94 Piccadilly. Recently I saw an article that said a recent deal to turn the house into a hotel and casino had fallen through. It is a Grade I Listed property.  I may offer to rent it for a pound a year. You'd have to bring your own furniture if you visited me there. But no problem!!

Moving backward in Emily's life, when she was married to Earl Cowper, she lived in St. George Steet near Hanover Square, though the building does not appear to exist anymore. I confirmed the location when I did soem research at the Westminster Archives, which was fun. 

Above is a view of Hanover Square and to the left is a view from the Square  to the church St. George's Hanover Square, on St. George St.

Houses on St. George Street.



Just a short walk from our hotel on Jermyn Street was the statue of Beau Brummell.




And not far away, across Piccadilly, is the Royal Academey of Arts. We watched them erect a new sculpture in the courtyard.




Two friends (Winnie and FDR) chat on a London street.




 Two views of The Criterion Restaurant where we had a snack before attending a play at the underground Criterion Theatre.



The play we saw was a wonderful British farce The 39 Steps, based on the novel and inspried by the Hitchcock film. Four actors performed all the parts and it was brilliant.

Fianlly, two shots from nearby Piccadilly. A window at Fortnum & Mason.


And a front door of wonderful Hatchards Bookstore, there since 1797.

As soon as I come home from England, I start dreaming about the next visit.

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

Traveling...to England 2009 #1

My Favorite place to travel is England, by far.  I can't get enough of it. I love the history, the museums, the stately homes, the countryside and just about everything that remains from pre-1850.  Just about.
More about that later.

Last May, 2009, Ed and I went to Chawton House Library where I gave them three volumes of La Belle Assemblee, including both from 1816 in which the fashion plates were intace. I also had a volume of 1815 without the fashion plates, but I included loose fashion plates from all of those months. I am on the left and Chawton House Librarian Jacqui Grainger is on the right.


Chawton House was one of the two large estates left to Jane Austen's brother Edward, who was "adopted" by relatives of Mrs. Austen who had no children of their own. He later changed his name of Edward Austen-Leigh.   

At right is a painting by Roy Connelly of Chawton Great House made on site in September of 2009.

Chawton House LIbrary is devoted to the study of women writers before 1900.  The house is on long-term lease from descendents of the Austen-Knight family to a foundation started by American Sandy Lerner, one of the founders of Cisco Systems. She and the foundation have restored the house and are working to restore the gardens to their 18th century condition. I have visited there several times.


When we arrived at Heathrow, Ed and I rented a car and drove to Wilshire where we had reservations at Stanton Manor Hotel, near Chippenham.
We stayed here several nights, traveling to Chippenham, to tour Bowood House, the Bowood Rhododendron Gardens, and Corsham Court. Most of the people staying in the hotel were there for the Horse Trials at a nearby estate. then we went on to a hotel in Alton for our visit to Chawton.




Bowood is the country home of the Marquess of Lansdowne and family. After WWII, the main house was demolished and various parts of the library and orangery wing were remodeled for the family and exhibitions of their art and treasures.




Corsham Court is mostly Victorian and has a beautiful garden and many art and decorative treasures.
The peacocks weren't parading much that day, just sitting around looking superior. 

After our visit to Chawton and the Chawton House Library, we went to  Gilbert White's home and garden in Selbourne, Hampshire. White kept detailed records of all his garden plants, providing a valuable resource to later researchers. Such as me. 

The next day we traveled around London to Befordshire and drove to Woburn, where we visited Woburn Abbey, a wonderful country estate where all the Whigs hung out in the early 19th century.  The Duke of Bedford and his brother Lord John Russell were important politicians and leaders of their party.  Many of the great issues of the day were discussed and decided at house parties here.

Our adventures continued the next day with a visit to Brocket Hall in Hertfordshire, the country home of the Viscounts Melbourne and the Lamb family. Emily Lamb grew up here with here brothers. Later she inherited the house and her second husband, Lord Palmerston died here at age 80.
 The next day we visited Hatfield House and toured the mansion plus the church, St. Etheldreda's, where Lady Melbourne, her son PM Melbourne and his wife Lady Caroline Lamb are supposedly buried.  In the House I found a painting of Emily, Lady Cowper, by William Owen, below.

The church has suffered lately from the floor falling in. A volunteer guide said that many of the burial places could not be identified any more.  The Melbourne Chapel was in complete disrepair and I can only hope it is being repaired.  Hatfield House is very interesting as the seat of the Earls of Salisbury, with the present earl still active in national poltical affairs. It was built in the time of James I on the estated that once housed Elizabeth while her sister Mary was Queen of England. It was here that Elizabeth learned of her sister's death and her own elevation to the throne.

Following our Hatfield visit, we very gladly drove back to Heathrow and left the car. We spent a bit of time looking at the new Terminal Five before we boarded the Heathrow Express and started the second half of our holiday in London. Below a few more pictures from the countryside (first) half of our trip.


Bowood Gardens


Chippenham


Finishing up repairs on Chawton Cottage for the 200th anniversary of Jane Austen's move there with her sister, mother, and friend Martha.

Laburnum at Gilbert White's Garden

The Staircase at Brocket Hall

Brocket Hall Drawing Room
 Brocket Hall Ballroom 

 
Brocket Hall Boudoir

 
Brocket's lovely grounds, now a golf course
Old House at Hatfield, known to Elizabeth I


St. Ethelreda's door


State Dining Room at Woburn Abbey

Queen Victoria's Bedroom (?)

Aerial View of Woburn Abbey