vicky's vibes: Traveling to England 2009, part two

After a week driving around Hampshire, Bedfordshire and Hertfordshire, we drove to Heathrow and dropped off our car. I cannot get over how much more stressful driving in England has become over the last fifteen or so years. I used to enjoy the challenge of driving on the left, but the traffic has grown so dreadful, with huge lorries and great volume of speeders, I no longer want to do it very much. Ed doesn't like it much either! So we were glad to be rid of the car. Above, a shot of the new terminal

which we walked through to catch the train into Paddington: the Heathrow Express. Paddington, right, has a rather Victorian feel, a sharp contrast to the new Heathrow space. Somehow, no matter the updating and modern amenities, these old railroad stations have that 19th century feel to them.

We stayed in St. James, at the Cavendish Hotel, corner of Jermyn Street and Duke Street, just the street from Fortnum and Mason. Though this is a concrete behemoth, it is the site of the famous hotel run by one of King Edward VII's mistesses, the famous Duchess of Duke Street, subject of a well-known PBS series, made in England of course. The Cavendish was an excellent location, just a block off Piccadilly and a neighbor not only of F&M, but of Hatchards and the Royal Academy.

Nice rooms and a great view from upstairs.

We had several visits planned for research purposes, especially to the Scotland Office in Whitehall, the former house lived in by the Melbourne family when Emily was a young girl.

Whitehall's sidewalks, aka pavements, were all torn up but we persevered and were taken around to the main floor rooms, which are occupied by the Scotland office. Through the rear windows, we saw the bands proacticing for the upcoming Trooping the Colour to celebrate the Queen's Birthday. I took some interior shots, though our guide was very nervous about it. Perhaps she thought I was a spy. From the Wales office??

The foyer is very impressive, looking upward toward the low rotunda and across the marble floor to the entrance.

The walls and fireplaces are still raltively intact, but hardly complemented by the sturdy official furniture and office lighting.

But there are definitely traces left of the elegant mansion that hosted so many parties, including the waltz lessons hosted by Lady Caroline Lamb, wife of William Lamb (Emily's brother) who after the death of his wife, succeeded to the title of Lord Mebourne and became Prime Minister of England.

Another of my delightful tasks while in London in may of 2009 was to follow the maps laid out by the Royal Academey exhibition of Palladian influences in Georgian architecture. I had downloaded their brochures, though the show itself was sadly concluded. On our walks around Mayfair and Westminster, we were able to see many 9of the buildings described, as below, two views of Berkely Square.

As I recall, this house was used by some American leaders during the Revolutionary war and early Federal Period. Need to renew my research!

We also looked at some of the other locations that Emily,Lady Cowper/Palmerston, lived. I think her first home after marriage ot Lord Palmerston was here, in Carlton Terrace. These buildings were on part of the location of Carlton House, which was demolished after having millions spend in rebuildign and enahncing its decor. The Prince Regent was a lavish spender. But it stood in the way of Nash's plan for connecting Regent Street with the Mall.

Later, the Palmerstons lived here at a building known today either as the In and Out Club, after the signs on the posts along Piccadilly, or Cambridge House, for it was once the residence of the Duke of Cambridge. Before the Pamerstons lived there (1855-65), others occupied the house, including the infamous first Marquess of Cholmondeley (1749-1827)who was a protector of Grace Eliot and a famous man about town. The house number is 94 Piccadilly. Recently I saw an article that said a recent deal to turn the house into a hotel and casino had fallen through. It is a Grade I Listed property. I may offer to rent it for a pound a year. You'd have to bring your own furniture if you visited me there. But no problem!!

Moving backward in Emily's life, when she was married to Earl Cowper, she lived in St. George Steet near Hanover Square, though the building does not appear to exist anymore. I confirmed the location when I did soem research at the Westminster Archives, which was fun.

Above is a view of Hanover Square and to the left is a view from the Square to the church St. George's Hanover Square, on St. George St.

Houses on St. George Street.

Just a short walk from our hotel on Jermyn Street was the statue of Beau Brummell.

And not far away, across Piccadilly, is the Royal Academey of Arts. We watched them erect a new sculpture in the courtyard.

Two friends (Winnie and FDR) chat on a London street.

Two views of The Criterion Restaurant where we had a snack before attending a play at the underground Criterion Theatre.

The play we saw was a wonderful British farce The 39 Steps, based on the novel and inspried by the Hitchcock film. Four actors performed all the parts and it was brilliant.